DIOR 2024 spring and summer clothing series
The annual “Golden Nine and Silver Ten” is of great significance to the fashion industry-this is a time for fashion magazines to compete for beauty and compare creativity, and it is also a time when many brands show their magic in the four major fashion weeks. In the past two years, many head brands have welcomed and replaced creative directors, and some have been in office for many years to continuously output wonderful shows. Today, take you to understand this fashion week the most artistic top ten show.
#01
# DIOR
In this show inspired by “witch”, Italian artist Elena Bellantoni’s installation work “not her” (NOT HER) presents the female stereotype in advertising since the 1940 s, the pink and yellow striped runway and screen background of pop style, in sharp contrast to the black and white clothing.
At the same time, the slogans in white on a black background remind people of the works of “image generation” artists such as Barbara Kruger. Both this season’s clothing and the show art installation continue the feminist theme of Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of the brand’s women’s clothing, challenging the traditional female image and temperament.
DIOR 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#02
# Louis Vuitton
This is the second big show of LV men’s creative director and singer Pharrell Williams in the brand. The address is chosen in an unfinished LV new space at 103 Champs Elysees in Paris. Scene designer James Chinlund wrapped the interior of the space and the pyramid-shaped seats with recyclable orange plastic to create an immersive show like being in a hot air balloon, which is also similar to the “wrapping art” of earth artist Christo. The entire show creates a sunset atmosphere, and the lightness of the plastic echoes the fluid costumes of this season, full of romantic charm.
LV 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#03
# Loewe
As the creative director of Loewe and JW Anderson, Jonathan Anderson has always been close to the art world, and his curated exhibition “On Foot” is currently being held at the Offer Waterman Gallery in the UK. He has worked with artists many times.
In this show, the models shuttled between the six “elephant necklaces” series created by sculptor Lynda Benglis. Details such as the overall profile of the clothing and the oversized buttons are inextricably linked with the sculptures. Among them, the most attractive shape is the flower brooch jacket with sculptor cooperation, jewelry incarnation can wear sculpture, colorful, more eye-catching.
Loewe 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#04
# Alexander McQueen
In the last show since designer Sarah Burton joined the brand for 26 years, Polish art pioneer Magdalena Abakanowicz’s most iconic hanging textile sculpture “Abakans” made a stunning appearance, in sharp contrast to the black and red color matching and tassel elements of the show costumes. At the same time, the artist’s attention to the female body is also in line with the designer’s tough and powerful tailoring.
In addition, the designer pays tribute to the classic design McQueen by Lee Alexander, the founder of the brand, which combines history, innovation and female empowerment to present a perfect farewell show.
Figure 1: Artist Magdalena Abakanowicz in the Spring/Summer 2024 show, Alexander McQueen
Figure 2:Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2024 Readymade Garment Collection
#05
# Chanel
The show was inspired by the early modernist building Villa Noailles in the south of France and was built by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens for the patron of the arts, the Noailles, who was also a good friend and client of Coco Chanel.
From the villa’s three-dimensional checkered garden to the charming sunken flower beds, the local elements of this building are cleverly integrated into the geometric patterns of the series, such as stripes and lattices, giving people a sense of relaxation as if they were on vacation in Nanfa.
Figure 1, 2: Villa Noaye
Figure 3, 4:Chanel 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#06
# Maison Margiela
When male and female models dressed in similar shapes, shrugged their shoulders and walked out with the steps of “six relatives do not recognize”, with the lyrics of “do I walk like a boy/do I speak like a boy” in the background music “Masculinity”, can you still distinguish the gender of Ta’s?
Designer John Galliano, who knows the history of fashion like the back of his hand, can always cleverly deconstruct and reorganize the elements of historical clothing, and use cheap materials such as garbage bags and plastics to bring people an elegant, grotesque and avant-garde fashion feast.
Maison Margiela 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#07
# Miu Miu
In the classical Palais d’Iéna (Palais d’Iéna) in Paris, accompanied by a dynamic rhythm, the video installation “Gravity & Grace” Al-Maria by the Qatari American artist Sophia divides the runway into two, which is described as “a landscape of technical ruins and a fictional history in the Palace of Jena”. Classical rationalism collides with fantastic futurism, and its creation is undoubtedly the icing on the cake for the whole show.
Sophia Al-Maria, who is fascinated by the doomsday world, once coined the term “Gulf Futurism” (Gulf futurism) to show her artistic aesthetic exploration of the Middle East and create images that combine beauty and chaos.
Miu Miu 2024 spring and summer clothing series
#08
# Undercover
What exactly is the relationship between art and fashion? Designer Takahashi Shield has proven that the two can be combined into one. As one of the most important living fashion designers in Japan, he is also a portrait painter. His first exhibition was at the Target Gallery in Tokyo in September this year, and his mutilated facial features are imaginative. Three of the works also appeared in the skirt of the show, bringing a mysterious atmosphere.
At the same time, the paintings of Neo Rauch, a representative of the New Leipzig School in Germany, also appeared in a large number of different shapes in the form of deconstruction. “New York Times” art critic Roberta Smith once called Rauch “a painter from the Cold War”. His works are a wonderful combination of pop, surrealism and social realism, which makes people feel “lively and depressed, funny and sincere”.
Undercover 2024 spring and summer clothing series
Neo Rauch “Die Pumpe”, oil on canvas, 250 × 300cm,2021
#09
# Avavav
Recently, some of the national brand of crazy public relations triggered a heated discussion. At the same time, Avavav, who appeared in Milan Fashion Week for the first time, also showed the crazy perfunctory arrangement of workers under high pressure in the hands of Norwegian designer Beate Karlsson, triggering a high degree of topic.
Whether it is the silver tape wrapped all over the body, or “No Time To Design” (No Time To Design), “Rich” (Filthy Rich) and “Add Shape” (Add Shape) and other slogans printed on clothing and models, coupled with everyone’s rapid pace, all reflect the fast-paced irony of the fashion industry. This “fast” is not only the rapid change of clothing from season to season, but also refers to the pressure on designers to be shrouded in the entire industry by frequent changes. How to relieve it? Only crazy……
Avavav 2024 spring and summer ready-to-wear series
#10
# Schiaparelli
Sitting on the precious brand files left by founder Elsa Schiaparelli, creative director Daniel Roseberry can be said to be standing on the shoulders of giants and inspiring. This show is based on the classic lobster skirt of surrealist artist Salvador Dali and the founder of the brand. Crabs, fish bones and other accessories appear in different shapes one after another. The huge volume is very eye-catching.
Real and surreal, rough and refined, American and European… these duality concepts become the core of the series. As the designer said: “We must understand today that two situations can often exist at the same time.”
Schiaparelli 2024 spring and summer ready-to-wear series
At the moment, the trade-off between commercialization and artistry seems more difficult for brands under the umbrella of the fashion giant group. It is necessary to applaud and sell well, but also to continuously, stably and quickly output good works, otherwise they will face the risk of being replaced, which is undoubtedly a huge pressure on creative directors.
Under such a trend, co-branding with artists may be a “shortcut”: sharing part of the creative work, saving time and energy, and making the clothing relatively more “deep”, while also making more contemporary artists known. It can be described as a win-win situation. What do you think of the combination of art and fashion?
(Source: Harper’s Bazaar Art)
