At the just-concluded Paris Fashion Week in autumn and winter 2024, creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s latest collection for Saint Laurent triggered completely different views and opinions: male critics generally praised Vaccarello’s unique interpretation of the charm of black night after, while female critics questioned the wearability of clothing, believing that it is almost impossible for anyone to wear such transparent clothes anywhere except on the runway.
As contemporary American artist Barbara Kruger put it succinctly in 1989, our bodies are a battleground. However, it is clear that in this case, there are some controversies that are beneficial to the brand’s social media numbers, which is directly reflected in the fact that Saint Laurent has topped the list of the most popular fashion shows on VOGUE Runway this season.
In addition, the controversial topic of sibling rivalry has also helped Georgian designer Guram Gvasalia, whose new collection of the Vetements brand is back at number nine this season (Marcia Cross’s cameo also gave Vetements a boost). The Balenciaga headed by Guram’s brother Demna is ranked eighth this time.
The fashion industry tends to be particularly fond of designer debuts, especially those that are successful, and Chemena Kamali’s Chloé, which was well received upon release, has made the brand’s debut on our list for the first time. As VOGUE Runway commentator Sarah Mower said in her review, there is no better candidate than Kamali to run Chloé. Considering her previous experience in the brand (under the leadership of Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller respectively), “everything she creates seems natural, unlike a designer who enters a brand for the first time, it will be like taking an entrance examination, in the first series, I want to dutifully integrate all the elements.”
People sometimes complain that there is nothing new in the fashion industry today, but our list suggests a different story. Of the 10 brands that made the list last season, five failed to make the cut this season-but that’s not the only record to be broken: there has never been a female-led brand on the list before.
In addition to Kamali-Chemena Chloé,Stella McCartney is another female-led brand to enter the charts. Of course, the appearance of Paul McCartney and Ringo in the front row of the show may have an impact on the brand’s traffic, but I think Stella’s climate change declaration is the key to making the brand attractive.
**** The following are the top 10 brand shows with the highest hits this season * * * *
(المصدر: VOGUE Business)
