Old money wind, dopamine, Maillard …… For nearly half a year, I believe that every friend who cares about fashion cannot deny the impact of these fashion keywords. I don’t know when, these words describing fashion trends are no longer descriptions of design materials, colors and tailoring, but extend to a broader situation, using the lifestyle of the class, neurotransmitters, and even the processing reactions of the food industry to summarize the feeling conveyed by fashion.
Coincidentally, their appearance reflects our needs at different levels. The eliteized concept of life, the satisfaction of emotional values, and the enjoyment of indulging taste buds are all interpreted and reproduced in the context of fashion. In the just-concluded New York Fashion Week in Spring/Summer 2024, these so-called popular keywords no longer worked in their own way, but sought a balance in integration. Similarly, there was a “two-way rush” about style between the old money and the new rich. Some long-lost faces returned to the stage of New York Fashion Week and announced to embrace the new changes in the fashion industry, the creative power in the limelight is also thinking about how to make its brand a classic in the future.
Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2024 Series
# Return
Return is undoubtedly the most important key word in New York Fashion Week this season. Helmut Lang, as the opening show, directly renders the mood of nostalgia and return. Perter Do, a designer from Vietnam, took over the brand’s creative banner and shouldered the important task of finding a foothold for Helmut Lang in the new era.
Helmut Lang 2024 spring and summer series
Perter Do, born in the 1990 s, met Helmut Lang’s golden age, but it has to be admitted that the frock vests, jeans, tight suits and parkas that Lang brought into the high fashion stage are already classic cases in Do’s textbooks when he was a student. Even if the personal brand is well received, Do still needs to treat Lang’s brilliant achievements in a cautious and rigorous way to respond to the expectations of the outside world. In fact, he handed over a safe and secure answer sheet, a wisp of neon colors flying in the suit of the fine-cut suit, the staggered stacking of knitted and cotton basic items, and the cool denim and jumpsuit all remind us of Lang’s file, but this may only be regarded as Do’s warm-up. He also made it clear that he was still reading and learning the legacy of this predecessor, and to bring it back to the public in a more “people-friendly” way, “we want to start a dialogue with a wider group of people… to make these clothes affordable and durable.”
Helmut Lang 2024 spring and summer series
Ralph Lauren, who has been in New York Fashion Week for four years, has also chosen to return this season. At a time when the “old money style” is sweeping the world, Lauren’s influence has undoubtedly been pushed to a high point again, which makes him once again full of creativity, who has never compromised on the changing trend. The show has been built into an old warehouse of ornate and decadent interweaving, which seems to send a signal that the classics are about to be reborn. From the beginning of the burning flower embroidered jeans, our idea was confirmed. The western complex, quiet luxury texture and the craft comparable to high determination flowed freely between the models.
Ralph Lauren 2024 Spring/Summer Series
A series of black and gold styles in the middle stage became a turning point in the style of the audience, followed by the long-lost Lauren color matching. Even if the current trend of old money is booming, he has not ignored those celebrities and upstarts who yearn for gorgeous colors. After all, the fire of “Star Spangled Banner and Royal Blue” has made more people realize the possibility of rejuvenating this classic brand. However, when the supermodel army led by Christy Turlington made a full curtain call for the big show, the time for Ralph Lauren was not over. The gate in the background of the show was slowly opened. The guests were about to be greeted by a luxurious performance, and the good show would continue.
Ralph Lauren 2024 Spring/Summer Series
Of course, the mood to return to the Fashion Week show must be mixed, just like the designer label 3.1 Phillip Lim, which was hibernated during the epidemic, and this season’s New York Fashion Week is another appearance after his absence for several seasons. We can see Phillip Lim’s insistence on the original style, but it is also actively catching up with the rapidly changing picky taste in the fashion industry. More sports elements are introduced into the excellent daily wear modeling. The simple solid color matching is also decorated with striking items such as lavender purple, ice cream powder and grass green. The elegant printed long skirt and urban overalls appearing at the end of the show may be seen as his determination to keep pace with the times, let New York, let the world sit up and take notice of him.
Phillip Lim 2024 spring and summer series
# Balance
New York Fashion Week has always been labeled as “commercialized”, but tracing back to the source, this so-called commercialized characteristic-simplicity, practical wear, and reasonable pricing, can really make the brand’s development path more stable and long-term. It can better meet the actual needs of consumers. Now, when the trend of minimalism makes a comeback again, the major brands representing the American style have also tried their best to extend new ideas in the basic style, making the design both commercial and interesting.
Proenza Schouler 2024 spring and summer series
Tory Burch, the designer who came up with the concept of “modular” fashion, is undoubtedly the leader in grasping the balance. In the past year, she has been trying to sort out the design language of her creation every season with standardized tailoring methods and comfortable wearing experience, so that seemingly simple clothing can be derived from a variety of wearing possibilities through the way of modeling and stacking. “In the chaotic world, we are thinking about what is effortless fashion, it is clothing that can release the soul. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection creates a neat structural profile with modular tailoring, feathery lightweight materials and intricate cascading designs.” She explained this to the new spring/summer 2024 series.
Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2024 Series
While continuing the brand’s iconic design, Burch’s “new modules” this season also include ultra-mini dress, sculptural suit jackets, and tops and skirts decorated with U-shaped necklines. Through emerald, dark ink, black, gray and beige and other cold colors to convey a delicate and restrained feeling, and these have also become the main colors in this season’s New York Fashion Week. At a release point facing spring and summer, designers are so The coincidental use of colors seems to be focusing on conveying calm and prudent thinking, and also reminding consumers to face fashion more rationally.
Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2024 Series
After celebrating the 20th birthday, this season’s Proenza Schouler also focused on opening a new chapter of its own. The brand’s previous recognition was reflected in classic bags and mesh dress. This season Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez brought a brand-new logo. The abstract combination of P and S is like an infinite symbol, decorated on the chest of the new season fashion.
Proenza Schouler 2024 spring and summer series
As always, black-and-white contrast, bright scarlet, goose yellow and a little clear sky blue are dotted in the series, but uncharacteristically, soft perspective tulle and fresh sequins appear. Starting from Liu Wen’s pleated strapless skirt, colored yarn fabrics become armor covering the basic model, or abstract patterns are printed on it, giving fashion hazy beauty. Under the romantic strokes of McCollough and Hernandez, sequins also have a fresh flavor. Aqua-blue diamond-shaped transparent sequins are like summer dewdrops sloping on suspender tops and overskirts, giving a refreshing feeling.
Proenza Schouler 2024 spring and summer series
Also seeking balance and change this season is Brandon Maxwell, who admits that this is a series that is “constantly torn between freedom and restraint. Perhaps your impression of him is still in Lady Gaga’s dramatic cross-dressing show on the Met Gala red carpet. However, since last season, Maxwell has taken the initiative to reduce its color palette, introduce a style more based on workplace suit styles, and emphasize the high quality brought by fabrics. However, perhaps the previous change came too fast and too fast. The industry did not seem to be ready to meet the Maxwell born for “commuting”. It was not until the spring/summer 2024 series released this time that we were able to confirm that he was finally able to rein and rein freely between himself and the market: the good draggly skirt returned in full, and it was matched with the necessary knitwear, leather jacket and bucket jacket in the daily wardrobe. In addition, the emergence of ripped jeans, leather stitching overskirts and printed diagonal shoulder dress also foreshadowed the potential of brand design to go to the streets.
Brandon Maxwell 2024 spring and summer series
# Evolution
In addition to local designers, the gathering of fashion design forces from all over the world is also the reason why New York Fashion Week can become a key stop in the four major fashion weeks. Most of them start their own fashion professional study from New York, create personal brands, or are concerned and sought after by the world fashion circle here. From Joseph Altuzarra and Dion Lee to Private Policy Li Haoran and Qu Siying, no matter what brand concept and style they adhere to, they all know that if they want to survive and develop in the highly competitive New York Fashion Week, they must go further in their strengths.
Altuzarra 2024 spring and summer series
Joseph Altuzarra, who is 30 years old this year, grew up in Paris. His father is French and his mother is Chinese. These experiences have shaped his diverse and inclusive design concept. This is especially obvious in the spring/summer 2024 series. “In the past few years of design, I have been escaping from the real world, and in the last season, all the colorful colors were interwoven to the peak. Now, I hope to return to more original and closer to life’s creativity.” In fact, although Altuzarra bid farewell to the exaggerated colors of the previous season, he shines in the stacking of fabrics, silhouettes and shapes. As he said, you can find almost any clothing needed for any occasion in this series. And you can wear and combine freely. With their own diverse backgrounds, to build a complete and modern women’s wardrobe.
Altuzarra 2024 spring and summer series
And Dion Lee, a designer from Australia, has further refined his sexy functional style design. Drawing inspiration from the hardware in the daily toolbox, Lee added more “hard core” metal decorations to the brand’s iconic corsets and overalls-wrenches, sockets, power cords and other alienated details. The model’s boots were hung with toolkits of different sizes, and even directly carried the internet cable to the show. “This season is mainly about improving the pragmatism and architectural language that I ‘ve been playing with so far,” Lee said. Admittedly, under the above-mentioned seemingly crazy gimmicks, the combination of Denim and knitted fabrics has become more comfortable, the structured matching of lace and corset is more seamless, and more jumping colors have been added to the original industrial solid colors, allowing Dion Lee to go further on his own way.
Dion Lee 2024 spring and summer series
Private Policy, founded by Chinese designer group Li Haoran and Qu Siying, appeared as the finale show on the first day of New York Fashion Week this season. It has upgraded the brand’s concept and technology, and everything revolves around environmental protection and sustainability. This season, environmentalists trying to save marine coral reefs have inspired their creations. Starting from the overalls for deep-sea operations, diving equipment, mesh headdresses, buoyancy life jackets and functional drawstrings run through the series, while the brand’s iconic diamond-shaped check also sets off hazy waves under the influence of the ocean concept, with soft color matching echoing the spiritual beauty of coral and other creatures in the deep sea.
Look closely at the glittering sequins that shine mottled on the Denim and satin, all made of biodegradable plastic, which can be decomposed in nature’s microbial environment. At the same time, the brand will also cooperate with the non-profit organization Reef Life Foundation to launch a T-shirt to share Reef Life Foundation’s insights on how to protect coral reefs in the form of newspaper prints. For every piece sold, an ocean rock block (Oceanite block) will be planted in endangered areas of the world to help coral growth and coral reef recovery, and promote fashion and the world to “evolve” towards a more sustainable future “.
(Source: VOGUE)
