On January 9, the 105th Florence Men’s Wear Exhibition (Pitti Uomo) kicked off, opening the prelude to the 2024 Autumn and Winter Men’s Wear Week. In the new year, the menswear market continues to introduce new trends, from crisp sports to luxurious home products, as well as oversized clothing silhouettes and accessories, some fresh trends are beginning to emerge.
Photo: Acielle / StyleDuMonde
### Men’s dress is no longer just “quiet luxury”
In the past year, Quiet Luxury, which continues to dominate the fashion discourse, has been highly sought after by the market. However, when minimalism shines, men’s clothing in 2024 will no longer repeat this trend, because male fashion idols prefer high-profile dress, which affects the preferences of mass male consumers.
As social media analyst @ databutmakeitfashion pointed out, according to her analysis of men’s clothing design, from 2021 to 2023, the number of obvious Logo models on the show increased by 53%, and media reports also promoted this trend.
Consumer sentiment is starting to shift from this concept. James Harris, co-host of the men’s podcast “Hysteria”, said in a recent episode: “Don’t be fashionable anymore. I ‘ve said it before, but I still say that high-profile and low-key are both needed.”
One of the reasons why the quiet luxury style has begun to stay away is the rise of new male fashion icons: in 2023, the influence of sports stars in the fashion field will gradually increase, and a large number of athletes will pour into the front row of the show of spring and summer 2024 fashion week. It is expected that this trend will continue until the next quarter. In order to stand out in street photos or show conferences, many athletes tend to choose bold and high-profile dresses with large-area prints or brand logos.
NBA stars such as LeBron James and Kevin Durant wore costumes with the LV and Prada logos respectively on their way to the locker room for the season opener, while Washington Wizards star Kyle Kuzma opted for a sequined team uniform and leather beret.
LeBron James wears a LV costume in a street shoot. Photo by Louis Vuitton
Experts agree that although many well-known male artists such as Lil Nas X, Harry Styles and Timothée Chalamet have long appeared in gorgeous shapes on the red carpet and in the front row of the show, athletes have greater relevance and influence on mainstream male consumers. According to Influencer Intelligence data, more than half of David Beckham’s 0.15 billion followers are men (on social media platforms), while more than 70% of Timothée Chalamet’s followers are women.
Perhaps the most famous high-profile luxury male representative is Kansas City Chiefs player Travis Kelce, whose team recently won the Super Bowl and who himself has established a romantic relationship with famous female singer Taylor Swift-a series of news that has helped make Travis Kelce one of the most searched celebrities on Google last year.
Kelce loves KidSuper, Moschino and Collina the suit of printed suits from brands like Strada. His styling strategist Danielle Salzedo said in an interview with VOGUE’s American version of The Run Through podcast that Travis Kelce’s floral shirt at Taylor Swift’s Buenos Aires concert was designed by DTC brand J.Logan Home and soon sold out on the brand’s website.
Source: NYT, Andscape, UpscaleHype
“We’re seeing more daring men’s outfits slowly moving into the high-end commercial neighborhoods, as well as in the mass retail market,” said Krista Corrigan, an Edited fashion and retail analyst. “Of course, you used to see Harry Styles or Timothée Chalamet wearing bold clothes, but this may not be a complete commercial transformation. I think now is the time when we start to see the turning point.”
Harry Styles stylist Harry Lambert released a collaboration series with Zara at the end of 2023 called Cutie Chaos, which she added will definitely impact the mass market. “The collection incorporates children’s core aesthetics, such as animal patterns, rainbow stripes and mohair. The collection has brought Zara considerable sales and proved the influence of Harry Lambert.”
Photograph: Steven Simione/Getty Images
### Entering the Era of Diversified “Torre Style”
In 2024, “Torre Wind” will be the focus. The Pinterest trend forecast report points out that from “Torre Wind” knitwear to loafers and knitted vests, the eclectic “Torre Aesthetics” will dominate. In 2023, searches for “pops” (60 percent), “eclectic dressing” (130 percent) and “retro streetwear” on the Pinterest rose, marking the rise of the style.
Data insights firm Edited also pointed to “daddy aesthetics” as a key trend for 2024, as items such as cardigans and knitted vests have increased in volume in the market. Corrigan said, “We see a lot of straight jeans rolled up so that people can see the socks and loafers.”
Celebrities like A$AP Rocky and Tyler the Creator are proponents of the trend: The former wore a Baroque tie and a tweed jacket with a ladybug and embossed brooch at an awards ceremony in Harlem last July.
Photograph: Johnny Nunez/WireImage
Home furnishings inspired by the ancestral era will also go mainstream this year. Future Labs predicts that consumers will tend to buy luxury home products, such as branded pottery or ceramics. An earlier sign came from the cooperation between the fashion brand Palace and the British century-old ceramic brand Wedgwood, which was released in October last year. The two sides brought a series of ceramic tea sets with Palace Logo and Wedgwood blue skateboards. On Palace’s official website, the series is described as “spending all your bad luck on a teacup”.
Photo by: Palace
Fiona Harkin, the future lab’s director of trend forecasting, says contemporary men have become accustomed to a collecting culture. “Before it might have been sneaker, then watches, now we are also seeing this trend in luxury tableware, which is a real celebration of the sense of ritual. In a world of serious waste, those tangible goods seem to have acquired new appeal.”
### Loose but large size dress code
From bags to jeans and jewellery, menswear profiles and accessories will be bigger and looser in 2024. Loose tailoring dominated menswear last year, 2024 spring/summer quarter suits were ramped up, and sales of items such as loose cotton trousers were stronger than ever, Edited reported.
This trend is still prevalent this year. As traditional menswear brands such as Zegna and Loro Piana continue to modernize, they will continue to relax their silhouettes for young customers looking for functional clothing and comfort. “This trend is going to continue on the show floor because post-pandemic men are going to think, ‘What do I think about these aesthetics? ‘even if you’re looking at gorpcore or tailoring,” Corrigan said “. This will be reflected in the overlapping combination of loose trousers, oversized sports jackets, hoodies and other single items. She added: “We are seeing an increase in the proportion of products using terms like ‘oversize, ”loose’ and ‘loose.”
Photo by Loro Piana
In 2024, male consumers will even choose larger accessories. In recent years, as the market for men’s luxury handbags has continued to boom, brands such as 16Arlington and Loewe have expanded their crossbody bags into wide handbags, a trend that stems from the “It Gir tote” that will permeate this year’s menswear market.
Berluti launched a new line of bags late last year, featuring its large Jour Softy tote bag. In June of the same year, during Wimbledon, Gucci customized a large travel bag for the appearance of tennis player Jannik Sinner. Louis Vuitton launched a variety of bright Monogram travel bags and handbags in 2023, and the brand’s menswear creative director Pharrell Williams frequently upper body.
In recent months, Bottega Veneta’s new oversized Andiamo bag made its debut on the women’s show floor, appearing in the looks of male fashion celebrities like Jacob Elordi and A$AP Rocky. A$AP Rocky carried a bubble gum pink style at the subsequent birthday party in October. At that time, he was wearing an olive green check suit jacket and Rihanna with his fiancee.
Photograph: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
### Jellyfish style dress and color shift
The jellyfish aesthetic encompasses home décor, couture and beauty ideas, and has flourished in this year’s menswear and womenswear, with roughly fluffy silhouettes and accessories, lilac and blue tones, iridescent fabrics and smooth lines.
The Pinterest report notes that searches for keywords such as “blue jellyfish” (up 155 percent), “jellyfish cap” (220 percent) and “jellyfish lamp” (95 percent) have surged in recent months. Early signs of this trend include Timothée Chalamet’s lavender latex look at the Tokyo premiere of the movie “Wonka”, the bubble jelly-shaped diamond necklace worn by Justin Bieber and his wife Hailey Bieber in recent months, the custom necklace of American jewelry brand Alex Moss, and the pink Loewe sunglasses worn by Justin Bieber at the US Open tennis tournament held in September last year.
Photo by: Gotham
Edited Corrigan said that in addition to the shades of jellyfish blue, the Pantone-picked 2024 representative colors may play a role in the next season’s palette. “Quiet extravagance purifies the palette in 2023. It is worth looking forward to see how the Pantone color of the year, ‘Pastel Peach, ‘will play out in the menswear market next year.”
Dior and Valentino used pastel peaches for their spring/summer show in 2024, designed to echo the shifting color trends, while brands such as Zegna and Kenzo have adopted the tone extensively, using pastel peaches in their head-to-toe exterior designs.
Photograph: Shin Ishikawa/Getty Images
Based on these predictions, after many quarters of quiet luxury, 2024 autumn and winter fashion week will bring a series of new ideas to the market from the show to the front row. The most noteworthy thing is that the industry generally believes that the second men’s clothing series Vuitton by Pharrell Williams in Louis will be released later this month, and the first series focusing on printing and pixel style was officially launched last week.
Corrigan also mentioned that brands and retailers will have more time to adapt to these trends compared to women’s clothing. Buyers should continue to serve minimalist customers by balancing bold trends and silhouettes with existing high-performance goods such as sports jackets and button-down shirts.
She said: “For menswear, it takes longer for trends to become mainstream. It will also take a while for male consumers to catch on and really adapt to new trends. The development of women’s clothing is so fast, it continues to enter the next subculture, the next trend, the next celebrity. Men’s wear, on the other hand, buys you more time, allowing you to drive the desire of male consumers before they fully integrate it into their wardrobe.”
(Source: Vogue Business)
